Photographing miniature settings is also challenging when we are trying to demonstrate the minuscule size of the items.  I’ve often seen photographs of miniatures that are so beautiful in quality and detail that we don’t realize they are actually miniature.  Some might argue that including something in the photograph to demonstrate scale detracts from the illusion, but I guess that depends on the purpose of the image.  My little Valentine setting was originally done to both inspire and market several items.  That said, Happy Valentine’s Day and should any of the items in the photograph tickle your fancy, I’ve included links to those currently available on our website.  I have a pretty good idea many of you will drool over the dishes (no pun intended)!  Unfortunately, those are not available for purchase.  They were created using water glide decals on Chrysnbon dishes.  I will try to find the contact information for the decals, which are simply beautiful.  The large bouquet at the rear of the table was also a special creation.  The large palm plants are temporarily out of stock, but I hope to have them back in production soon.  

One final note.  The photograph was taken shortly after some creative manufacturing work and those are working hands, not intended for modeling.

Champagne Set

Candlesticks

Silverware

Salt & Pepper Shakers

Valentine Box of Chocolates

Rose Bouquet on Table

The table is set for one symbolizing the isolation of the absent service member.  

The table is round to show our everlasting concern for our missing brothers and sisters in arms.  

A white tablecloth draped over the table symbolizes the pure intentions of the service members who answered the call to serve. 

The single red rose, displayed in a vase, reminds us of the lives of these Americans and their loved ones and friends who keep the faith while seeking answers.  The single rose also symbolizes the blood that service members have shed in sacrifice to ensure the freedom of the United States of America.  

The red ribbon represents the love of our country, which inspired them to answer the nation's call.  It also symbolizes our continued determination to account for our missing.  Alternately, we have seen yellow ribbons used as a symbol of support for our troops.

A slice of lemon on the bread plate represents the bitter fate of the POW/MAI's; captured or missing in a foreign land.

A pinch of salt symbolizes the tears shed by waiting families who long for answers often after decades of uncertainty.  

An inverted glass represents that the missing and fallen cannot partake and symbolizes their inability to share a toast with us or join in the festivities of the evening.  

The lighted candle symbolizes a light of hope that lives in our hearts to illuminate the missing's way home.  

The chair is empty, depicts an unknown face, representing no specific soldier, sailor, airman, or marine, but all who are not here with us; the seat the remains unclaimed at the table, representing the absence of the missing and fallen.

In addition to these basic elements, we have seen a folded American Flag set on the table or across the dinner plate, a bible or prayer book, and POW/MAI flag draped across the chair.  

We remember the many brave men and women who have given their lives through the history of our country and to protect us from harm.  We remember all of those who sustained injury in mind and/or body in the course of their service.  

Thank You for Your Service... We Salute You!

Jimmy created a large, top floor bedroom for the children and envisioned a pair of bunk beds.  I knew it would be a few weeks before the beds arrived so I began my search of the Internet for ideas and photographs of how a Victorian bunk bed would be dressed.  Every Victorian bedroom I came across was beautiful and opulent, but most of the text I read was quite the contrary.  That was especially true when it came to children's bedrooms.   

From prior research of various Victorian projects, I knew that private spaces of the era tended to be considerably less ornate, but I was surprised to learn that bedding, particularly in a child's room was actually quite simple even in the most wealthy family homes.  I continued to search for images of Victorian children bedrooms, nurseries and playrooms, anything that would help me decorate the beds in a period-appropriate manner.  Interestly enough, most of the images I came across were in fact dollhouse creations or, of course, modern ads offering "Victorian inspired" rooms.  Not quite what we had in mind.  And not one showing a bunk bed in a true Victorian setting.  However, I soon discovered a fair amount of Victorian bedroom imagery offered by various museums that showed rooms more in line with what I had read in several articles published in the late part of the 19th Century (generally from the UK).  So much for fabulous fabric, luxurious lace, and pretty pillows!    Most children's beds were little more than white sheets, pillows, and handmade quilts.  That was okay with Jimmy, he wanted it simple anyway.

Since Jimmy's house is called "The 1891", it places it firmly at the end of the Victorian period, during which there was a substantial change in healthy living attitudes and homes.  During the early part of the Victorian period, homes in general were decorated with heavy fabrics on sofas, chairs, and even beds and windows.  That was not the case in the latter part of the era.  Several articles even mentioned pulling bedding off the beds and draping them across the furniture during the day for a proper airing.    

The closest thing I found to a Victorian bunk bed was in fact the Cupboard Bed, which actually kinda gives me the creeps.  I guess that's my clustophia coming through.  So I decided to utilize some artistic license.  That is what we do isn't it?  

Testing, fitting and comparing ideas

I knew I would have a simple white cotton gathered bed skirt for the bottom bunk, as well as coverlet, quilt and couple pillows (gotta keep that head raised for good breathing while asleep) on each bed.  As I designed, sewed, fitted, tested, added, subtracted, and redesigned, I encountered a bit of a challenge with the top bunk.  Something just didn't look right.  I decided it needed a bed skirt, but it had to be a bit shorter than the one on the lower bunk.  Piece of cake, right?  Wrong.  These sweet miniature bunk beds are made completely in one piece (aside from the ladder) and every joint is nice and solidly soldered.  Essentially, the mattress slats are attached to the side rail making it nearly impossible for the skirt to hang from the frame.  I stared and fiddled and tested different ways to get a nice drape to no avail.  Finally, I resorted to two snips in the fabric that are simply tucked within the gathers.  I also added a piece of basswood atop the frame to provide a little more stability to the mattress and the bed skirt on each bed.   

Opposite side of bunk bed

Jimmy and I were pleased with the final result.  Be sure to check out @jimmy_landers_jhlsignatures to see them in his wonderful 1891 as well as at the Franklin Historical Museum beginning October 7, 2021.  I hope you enjoy!

Wingback Chair

Pedestal Accent Table

Camelback Sofa

Oval Coffee Table

• Clawfoot Tub
• High Tank Water Closet
• Wall-Hung Lavatory Sink
• Wall-Hung Medicine Cabinet w/Mirror
• Heat Register/Radiator
• Simple Stool

Some miniaturists are put off by the fact that this kit is comprised of plastic components, while others love the delicacy and detail resulting from the accuracy and scale afforded by the creation from plastic molds. Another plus, in my opinion to these kits is the fact that they are "Made in America" which with the exception of artisan and/or handcrafted items is generally lacking in the miniature world. With a little work, this wonderful kit can easily compete with the expensive porcelain or china bathrooms in 1:12 scale. Not to mention its versatility.

Two important things one must keep in mind when working with these kits is that there is some necessary preparation work and patience is a must.  Some key suggestions:  

• Always (with any kit) confirm you you have all pieces
• Read the instructions
• Identify and familiarize yourself with the components
• Remove any plating (some pieces have a silver plating to emulate metal)
• Avoid getting paint on joints or points of glue contact (remove any excess paint before assembly)
• Always dry fit first to confirm the proper connection and fit
• Use water based stains and/or paints designed for plastics
• Use glues and adhesives designed for use with plastics for assembly
• Allow sufficient time for glue to set and fully cure before moving onto the next step

It had been some time since I last assembled the bathroom kit, so I decided it was time to do so again. For a little inspiration, I am including a picture of the bathroom fixtures in a finished room setting so you can see more than just the manufacturer's images and kit pieces prior to finishing and assembling. Click here for an Instagram picture that shows the scale of several pieces laid out on a cutting mat as I was prepping and painting parts.  While I did not paint any of the white components other than the radiator/register, I do know that many miniaturists use a high gloss white spray paint for plastics to achieve a wonderful porcelain finish.  My intent to was create a basic bath using a minimal amount of modification in this case.  I have also seen both the tub and the sink enclosed/encased in wood bases for a completely different look.  Imagine a bathroom with beadboard wainscotting and tub enclosure for example.  Please note that I don't recommend you consider this set if intended for child's play.  Much like a real life bathroom, the fixtures should be permanently set in place (at least the toilet and sink) as they are very delicate and will generally just topple over.  The fixtures also include many tiny pieces, specifically the faucets.  

In addition to the Victorian Bathroom, the roombox includes a walnut and black window by Majestic Mansions, China Blue Compliment wallpaper by Brodnax, WM34302 wall tile by World Model, hardwood flooring sheet CLA73104 by Classics that I stained using Minwax Olde Maple, and the bath accessory set by by Chrysnbon. I added a bit of privacy without covering up the wonderful window by stippling clear glass paint on the pane. I painted the brightly colored (too contemporary for this setting) toothbrushes with model paint for plastics. I'm still debating if I'm going to add any crown molding or lighting to the room at this point, but for now I'm loving the look.  Like most miniaturists I do tend to continually add to a setting. This one-inch (1:12) scale bathroom is about 7" by 7" square with a 10" ceiling height.  

From lunchpails to bottles of ink, from lighting to desks, I found a wide variety of items that could compose this little piece of history that varied only slightly from one continent to the next.  But the biggest surprise I got was that they were rarely an idyllic little setting save Hollywood versions and some small towns.  Many of these institutions of learning were tiny spaces with bad lighting and intemperate conditions the modern child (and teacher) would find deplorable.  Some of these schoolhouses could fit less than a handful of students but were often filled to capacity with barely space to move let alone write on a slate or precious piece of paper.  The rooms would be cold in the winter and hot in the summer even with windows thrown wide or stoves stoked to capacity.  As lighting was transitioning from kerosene oil to electric, not all areas had that luxury.  I cringed to think of the wall mounted or ceiling suspended oil lamps and the potential for fire and worse.  As I looked at some of the old tintype images of dark and crowded spaces I think of how those children and teachers struggled to learn under less than ideal conditions.  But rather than focus on the darker side of Victorian schoolhouses, I decided to look at the positive side.  Many children were finally being given the opportunity to read and write.  The Iron Age was providing much needed supplies like sturdy wood and metal desks, pencils, paper, electricity and books, the likes of which were something most children didn't know existed.  

So I began to collect ideas and items to fill a generic one-room schoolhouse that I placed in a tiny town somewhere in middle America with just enough space to provide the local children a chance to learn their three R's:  Reading, Writing and Arithmetic!   I thought about roughing it up a bit to show long use, age, and the occasional mishap, but decided it would be a new schoolhouse opening it's doors for the first time in the late 1890's.  I still consider carving a couple sets of initials (in a heart) or a name on a desk, maybe knocking over a bottle of ink across one of those shiny new desks, creating a water stain or two across the ceiling or down the wall, but then I think not, not this time.  As much as I like a good old aged project, I decided I wanted something a little more bright and new instead of a rather dark and cramped space.  

So from an apple to a switch and from an abacus to a world globe, a schoolhouse clock and the American flag are among some of the items typically found in a Victorian American classroom.  Oh yes, they didn't have water fountains as we know them in the 20th and 21st Centuries, but our little school does have a couple wonderful water jugs even if the children must share a mug.  

Enjoy this little bit of history if not a bit idealized in one-inch (1:12) scale miniature! 

These wonderful student desks (in three different formats with either walnut or maple finishes) are now available in our shop.  Just check out our Exclusives!

I'm always on the lookout for quick and simple ways to demonstrate concepts for miniaturists (novice and seasoned alike) and recently came across this cute video on soldering basics.  I like how she explains a few important points to make good connections.  

As I find more videos I think will help you overcome your wiring fears, I'll be sure to post them here.  

Don't be afraid, add light to your dollhouse!

While some dollhouse kits include pre-milled siding, most scratch built and various other kits do not.  Dollhouses built from scratch or kits using smooth cabinet grade plywood or luan plywood provide the builder with various options to finish the exterior walls according to their preference.  One of the most common and favorite finishing option includes pre-milled siding sheets.  Siding sheets typically measure approximately 3-1/2" high by 24" wide by 1/16" thick with some available in 3" heights and 12" or 36" length options.  The siding sheets come in a variety of profiles including 1/2" lapped, 1/2" and 3/8" beaded, 3/8" lapped, 1/4" lapped, 3/16" lapped, and 1/8" lapped.  The term "lapped" refers to the spacing of each course (or board width) on the siding sheet.  

In one-inch (1:12) scale, the lap measurement for a 1/2" board width is equivalent to a 6" full size board and is a frequent size selected.  Alternatively, a 3/8" board width (4-1/2" full size) is very typical of many older houses while a 1/4" board width can be authentic for one-inch scale houses.  However, the 1/4" width is more commonly used on 1/2" (1:24) scale houses.  A board width of 1/8" is best suited for 1/4" scale houses and makes a nice shutter slat material in one-inch scale.  A 3/16" board width is also available and is generally used on half-inch (1:24) scale houses or for a wider shutter in one-inch (1:12) scale.  

Each siding sheet usually has a recessed cut at the bottom edge that creates a small lip to sit over the siding sheet below.  This lip makes a good joint and helps avoid (or diminish) the development of a visible crack or gap should the siding pieces shrink at some point.  A word of caution regarding the lip:  do not allow glue to extend above the top edge or below the bottom edge of the siding sheets.  This excess glue will prohibit a good clean connection between the adjoining sheets.  Since the siding installation should be started at the bottom edge of the dollhouse, the recess on the very bottom piece should be filled with a piece of square stripwood, such as MW4022, making the bottom edge less vulnerable to damage.  See images below.

When installing siding sheets on your dollhouse, do not butt sheets end-to-end, rather make certain you have several sheets on hand that are longer than your dollhouse is wide so you can avoid very unrealistic and noticeable "seams."  It is preferable to install siding sheets from end to end of the dollhouse (then cut out doors and windows), however, you can also place sheets between doors and windows to avoid any seams.  Hold (or temporarily tape) your siding sheet in place then using a pencil mark any doors and windows (from inside the dollhouse) to indicate your cutting lines.  Remove the sheet and cut along the pencil lines with your knife.  It is usually easier to first cut along the vertical lines then across the horizontal lines.  This is especially true when a siding sheet covers only part of the door or window (usually top or bottom).  Always test fit to confirm that your doors and window frames are easily inserted into place before attaching the siding.  TIP:  If your doors and windows are already installed, try to gently remove them to make it easier to install your siding sheets.  Usually, with a little pressure, a metal putty knife, and a hair dryer to heat the putty knife and glue used on the doors and windows, they should come away from the dollhouse.  If that is not an option, you will need to be more diligent when cutting the siding sheets to fit around the frames.  

While there is no right or wrong way to cut and install the siding sheets, some prefer cutting and numbering all sheets then installing them bottom to top.  Others prefer cutting and installing a few sheets at a time.  The second option is more likely to avoid confusion and errors.  We recommend cutting pieces fairly accurate but most shortfalls can be covered with door or window casing and edge trims.  

The exception would be inside corners such as an "L" shaped house or one with extensions where siding edges meet.  The siding may be simply butted together, or a 1/8" x 1/8" stripwood may be placed in the inside corner to receive the butt ends of siding from both walls, as is commonly done on real houses.  The stripwood makes a clean joining and also helps to hide any mismatch of siding.  This particular trim at inside corners is painted the same color as the siding while other trim boards are usually a contrasting color.  Typically, exterior corners are covered with angle trims for a finished look.  

TIP:  Cutting the sheets may be done with various saws, a utility or a hobby-craft knife.  When using a knife several passes (scoring) are made for each cut rather than trying to cut through with the first cut.  

When siding must be cut on an angle, such as under the roof at the gable ends or on dormers, create a template of the area from scrap material (or paper) and transfer the outline onto your siding sheet.  Remember, any rough edges can be covered with trim stock for a finished look.  If your dollhouse has an attached porch you may need to trim off some of the bottom of the siding sheet, so plan according.  It may not be the best place to install your first sheet of siding.  

When you are ready to glue the siding sheets in place remember to use a non-water base adhesive.  Water based glues will most likely cause the siding to warp.  Consider Quick Grip, Multi-Grip, or MagnaTac for this purpose.  You can find all these glues here if you wish to compare them.  These are all solvent based adhesives and are very good for attaching siding to plywood.  Apply a bead of glue along all of the edges plus a zig-zag bead in the middle (see illustration at left).  After positioning the siding, lift the sheet slightly to allow air to reach the flattened glue on both surfaces then press the siding sheet back into place.  While the adhesives grip quickly and permanently, you may notice the need to press and hold the sheet for a couple minutes to help it keep good, tight contact with the plywood.  Some installers actually allow the solvent based adhesives the dry a bit (until when touched no glue strings pull from either the siding or the plywood) then press in place and firmly rub along the siding until flat and tight.  If this is your first installation, you might consider testing on scrap wood before proceeding.  

A major point of discussion when installing sheet siding is when and how to paint the siding.  As in most projects, you will get several different answers, or opinions.  But the majority of dollhouse builders who have worked with pre-milled siding sheets agree that it is best to paint after the siding has been properly installed.  Some will argue that the siding sheets will warp if not painted on both sides before installation, but most agree that with the proper application and adequate adhesive, the sheets will not warp.  The key is to be generous with your glue, making certain that all edges are firmly attached, that you have a fair amount of adhesive spread across the main body of each sheet, and that you have used a non-water base adhesive (solvent base only). 

When painting your dollhouse be certain to apply 2-3 thin coats (beginning with a latex primer/sealer base).  Remember thin coats so you do not lose definition.  Lightly sand each course of siding following the direction of the laps between each coat.  Consider using an emery board or finishing grit sandpaper that you have folded in half for ease of holding and sanding along the laps.  Avoid sanding against the grain or again you will lose the definition of the siding.